Hawaii

Below is a brief history on this thing we call surfing as it's origins stem from the heart of Hawaii. The footage isn't exactly brand new, but if your anything like me you never get sick of watching the worlds best getting blown out of heaving barrels. Hawaiis Backdoor and Pipeline are still one of God's greatest forces to be reckoned with too date.


History
The earliest written account of surfing, or “hee nalu” in Hawaiian, was by Lieutenant James King in 1779 just months after Captain Cook’s death. He described Native Hawaiians riding a wood plank on the swells of Kealakekua Bay on Hawaii Island. Even he could see how fun the sport was writing, “… they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion that this exercise gives.”

Surfing is believed to have originated long ago in ancient Polynesia, later thriving in Hawaii. It was once a sport only reserved for alii (Hawaiian royalty), which is why surfing is often called the “sport of kings.” King Kamehameha I himself was known for his surfing ability. With the end of the Hawaiian kapu (taboo) system in 1819, commoners were allowed to freely participate in the sport. With the arrival of western missionaries in the 1800’s, Hawaiian customs like hula and surfing were discouraged.

But in the late 1800’s the “Merrie Monarch” King Kalakaua, one of the last reigning monarchs of the Hawaiian Kingdom, revived the hula signaling the return of Hawaiian cultural pride. In the early 1900’s, surfing was revitalized on Waikiki Beach. Duke Kahanamoku, who grew up surfing these south shore waves, was a Waikiki Beach Boy, spreading aloha by teaching visitors how to surf and canoe. Duke later became a multiple gold-medal winner at the Olympics as a swimmer. Later in life he was known as the “father of modern surfing,” spreading the popularity of the sport to the mainland U.S. and Australia. Today, a bronze statue of Duke welcomes visitors to Waikiki where first-time surfers are still learning to catch their first waves today.

Did big wave surfing begin in Hawaii?
Hawaii is also the birthplace of big wave surfing. In the 1950’s surfers began to ride the powerful winter waves of Makaha on Oahu’s west shore and Waimea Bay on the North Shore. Big wave season in Hawaii happens roughly between November and February on Hawaii’s north shores.


Enjoy the klip we put together below as the footage is insane!!!